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Yo Amo Medellín

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 Although I've only been here three weeks, I'm starting to love Medellín, especially the neighborhood I've been staying in, Laureles. Just a few blocks away are the posh streets, where you can go for a drink or a nice meal. The city is built in a valley, so wherever you go there's a view: There's culture in the formerly gang-ridden districts, built on the hills going up from the valley. Everwhere in Laureles there are beautiful plantings: It wouldn't be Medellín without the pervasive art influence of Fernando Botero: Merry Xmas! My hotel is great, the most spacious room yet.  With a Jacuzzi.  Which I haven't used.  $25 a night!  And with flawless internet (first time in my travels) so I'm catching up some things I've really been looking forward to on the Criterion Channel. I heart butterflies in my bed: Have I mentioned the restaurants?  Lots of little prix fixe/menu del día around.  This time it was "chicharrón" aka deep-fried pork belly. ...

My New Boyfriend

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 Well, for an hour at least 😏.  20 y.o. student in Engineering Systems Venezuelan Daniel.  Fantastic, sexy, sweet.   Happy New Year to me, eggplant tears!

Street Art City Smackdown!

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 Five (couldn't find any in Montevideo, otherwise boring) out of six cities.  Whose street art is best? Bogotá: Buenos Aires: São Paulo: Lima: Santiago: Medellín: Votes on a postcard to . . .

Museum Disappointment

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 When I say disappointment, I mean severe.  After all the great stuff by Colombian artists in the Museo de Antioquia, I was expecting more of the same from the Museo de Arte Moderno de Medellín.  (Hint: save your $9.) Nope, the permanent galleries had signs hanging from the ceiling with definitions of art terms, such as "photorealism" or "conceptual art," then somewhere in the vicinity might be an example.  But mostly instead of examples of the terms there were newspaper articles, photos and ephemera documenting the history of art exhibits in Medellín, which if you're interested would have been fascinating. I wasn't.  I took exactly one picture of the works on display, so I hope you like it.  I did! One unexpectedly odd thing about the museum is that on the 4th floor terrace they have a coca garden, documenting the various varieties in signage and living examples: Maybe the most interesting thing about the museum is the building itself: And the views, altho...

Colombian Food (updated)

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 I was a bit unkind about Colombian food in previous posts, but that's partially because I didn't make much of an effort.  This time around, I'll pay better attention to the best of Colombian cuisine. #1. My first oblea! It's pretty simple, two crispy wafers spread with the fillings of your choice.  I had mora (blackberry), very traditional, plus cream and cheese. This was very good, the cheese balancing the sweetness of the blackberry, and the crispy wafers a nice contrast to the (very) oozy fillings. $1.50. #2. An "arepa" is just a fried round of cornmeal dough, often treated as a sandwich, so the fillings make it good or bad. The place is named "Areppology," which should be short for "Arepa apology," but read on . . . I ordered chicharrón (deep-fried pork) and salsa. Oh dear.  The pork meat was nice, but the (thick) skin was completely undercooked, like rubber and completely inedible, so I ended up spitting out half of the filling.  Also...

My Jewish Xmas Dinner

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 . . . by which of course I mean Chinese! The Rappi delivery service (not just food) seems ubiquitous in the parts of LATAM I've been to.  Absolutely smooth sailing from placing the order to watching the little motorcycle driver (it's always motorcycles) icon.  When he arrived at his destination I just had to go downstairs and give them the code. Not my pic: My kung pao chicken + egg rolls came wrapped in mylar bags that certainly kept it hot!  And it wouldn't be Chinese delivery if they didn't foul something up -- I only got one eggroll instead of the promised two. But, you ask, how did it taste?  Disappointingly, not very good.  The cabbage-only eggroll was exceedingly greasy and had a weird sour taste.  The kung pao chicken was better, but tasted like yer average kung pao chicken, rather than the superior version you get at Sichuan rather than generic Chinese restaurants. Merry Xmas!

True Travel Costs + Street Legal

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 I pretty carefully tracked my daily costs for a month to see how well I was doing.  Surely I've missed a few things, so I bumped up everything by 10%. Ciggies $79 Groceries $125 Restaurants $168 Snacks $36 ATM/Western Union Fees $38 Misc. $92 Clothes/Toiletries $59 Uber/Taxi $112 Entry Fees $54 Flight $354 So, even including the Clothes/Toiletries and the Flight, which wouldn't happen every month, that's $1107 for daily expenses.  Add on $969 for housing and that's still less than $2100, within my budget with some to spare! I was really curious as to how much I've been spending on housing and food.  Housing comes out to $32 a day.  If I'm in a place with a fridge, I eat a lot of sandwiches.  In any case, it's been a nice mix of cheap eats and foodie treats.  Oh, the number?  $329 or $11 a day! PS After 1-1/4 hours in line, I got my "personalized" transport card.  I feel special!