Pinheiros and Vila Madalena
I did a "free" (before $20 tip, of course!) walking tour of these two neighborhoods, both of which feature loads of graffiti/street art. And both feature São Paulo's lack of building codes, so you'll see a modern high-rise next to a decaying two-story building.
Pinheiros used to be the bohemian hippy district, but has now been developed. Vila de Madalena is older and retains some of its original charm.
One thing I really liked is that there are street plantings everywhere, like these:
If you think I forgot the graffiti, no!
Just to finish, this beautiful crown of thorns growing over a wall:










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